28 June 2009

The Quiet Dignity Kid



The picture is of a kid in Basateen who seems to be everywhere. He has his eyes and ears open and tries to be a part of everything. In addition to being outgoing, he's smart and has a quiet dignity to him.

I saw him in the office today. He came to ask about rumours he's heard that the Yemeni government will expel all refugees from the country within six months. My immediate reaction was a smile and a drawn out "noooooo" but I realized he was genuinely worried.

I explained to this kid that there are close to 850,000 refugees in Yemen and that there's no way the Yemeni gvt could organize anything on a scale so grand. If you've seen the Yemeni military you know what I'm talking about. Soldiers in the same unit wear a dozen different uniforms; it depends on what was available at the time.

I got a kick out of the rumour but it's a little worrying that he was concerned about it. Maybe he was excited about it. Who knows? Oman might be better than Yemen for a lot of people. A change of scenery at least.

You hear many rumours in Basateen. A persistent rumour is that there are private individuals you pay who will resettle you in the US. I attempted to start a public awareness campaign to combat this lie (only the UNHCR can resettle you and you do not pay) but some of our staff insisted it's true. They said they personally know people who paid and were resettled. We had a heated conversation about it. They told me they don't believe the UNHCR. UNHCR is tricking everyone for some reason.

Compassion

Each day in Basateen reminds me of war's brutality. Its sickness and cruelty penetrate everything. War destroys culture, family, art, and, in some people, compassion.

Some who know war firsthand have to close themselves off from the cruelty in order to survive their lives in the camp. They do what they can to make it work day after day. Proud people become beggars. Respected people steal. Compassionate people strangle their hearts. Whatever gets us through the day.

We pulled up to work this morning at the usual time. From the truck I noticed a woman lying on the pavement in front of our office gate, surrounded by three little children, and a teenage girl. The girl was crouched over her, fanning her with a magazine. My coworkers passed her on the way in through the gate. No one stopped.

I got out and looked at her. Her hijab had slipped slightly and revealed her hair. It seemed inappropriate to look longer. I walked through the gate but felt a need to go back.

When I returned the young girl said that the woman had no blood and needed to go to the hospital. I wondered if I heard her correctly; how can someone have no blood? I went inside to find a social worker, someone who supervises the "medical cases" at our agency.

When I found one and told him what was happening, he said, "She's not my case. She's probably Mohammed's case." I found Mohammed, who was searching his briefcase and shuffling papers, and told him about the woman in front and how it was urgent. He said, "In a minute." I yelled and told him the woman is more important than his papers. He ignored me. I pleaded with two other people before anyone responded.

His first question to the woman was, "Which block do you live in?" Responsibility for 'cases' is divided by blocks in Basateen and if a social worker isn't responsible for that block, s/he may refuse to help the refugee and simply tell them to come back later to see the one who is. The woman answered that she doesn't live in Basateen but came here from Kharaz for medical help. Kharaz is the camp in the middle of nowhere, about two hours from Aden. The social worker refused to help her. He stood up and said she'd have to go back to Kharaz or another agency for help. Meanwhile, the woman is lying on the filthy street, her head on a rice bag that contained her family's clothes. The young girl started to cry.

I asked for help to bring the woman inside our compound. The girl helped and we sat the woman on a plastic chair. Almost immediately urine and blood gushed from her. My coworkers still debated about what to do, as the woman's head flopped to her side and her mouth dropped open. I don't think I will forget it. A social worker had his hands crossed on his chest as he watched this woman drift in and out. No one moved but the woman's children, who jumped to avoid the stream coming from her.

I ran inside and told our office director and asked that we get an ambulance. She said the procedure is for us to take her to the clinic in the slum, get a referral, then take her to the hospital. I asked if she would do the same for a gunshot victim. She said I was overreacting.

And that's what they did after a few minutes. They dragged her into the Land Rover to drive her to the clinic to get a referral, then went on with their day.

It overwhelms me.

26 June 2009

Sights

Chillin'.
The great leader.
Water in a bag.
Basateen.

World Refugee Day


Hip-Hop Basateen style.

24 June 2009

in order that you may attain bliss






The latest fashion update out of Paris is that French president Sarkozy wants to ban the burqa in order to free women from the constrains of being anonymous. Meanwhile, Yemen might be the only country in the world where men's fashion is more diverse and vibrant than women's, mainly because almost all women wear the exact same thing; A long black robe(abaya) a sheer, black cloth, cut like a poncho over their shoulders, and a Zoro like cloth, with a slit for the eyes, over their face( niqab). For visual aid see exhibits B and C above.

Though I don't doubt that there are many, many women who are devout, and would choose to dress this way regardless of the norm, I would venture to guess that just as many would choose to express themselves in a different attire if given the apportunity. For me, at times I wear the abaya(the long black robe). Other times I wear a long loose skirt with a long top and a hijab. Yesterday while standing in front of a small restaurant next to our office waiting for Michael , I got the usual stare down from several women passing by, the owner who was observing this said to me " you should wear an abaya, they are looking at you because you are not." This from a dude wearing a man skirt that was so short it barely grazed his thighs, and a shirt that was open down to his navel. I almost said " why don't you lay off the mini skirt."

What is disturbing about Sarkozy's proposal and the dress code laid out for the women of Yemen, is the assumption that women cannot be trusted with the simple task of choosing how to dress. They need to be liberated one way or another, by forces that know better than they what is good for them. Liberation through oppresion.

19 June 2009

Riot in the Backyard

There was a riot under our porch last week. In the morning we saw cops demolish a house with a bulldozer. We got it on video. Things got hectic for a minute but we had to leave for work. The last I saw, riot cops were pushing people away from the rubble.

When we were driving back from Basateen around 4:30 in the afternoon, we turned onto our street and saw men rolling tires set on fire out into the middle of the road. We quickly backed up and went around another way. The black, acrid smoke from the tires looked like it might be engulfing our apartment building but I wanted to get home. The alternative was to wait things out at our supervisor's apartment. We would've had to sit in our sweaty clothes and make conversation. Walking through a riot to get home seemed like the better option. It was a little uncomfortable walking past a bunch of Yemeni police with AKs, tires burning, rocks flying, but we got home alright.

We made these videos from our back porch. The first is the morning house demolition: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4O6opms5OdM .
The second is the afternoon clash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XOD_T8yPIY

- Michael

12 June 2009

Roughie & Toughie





One night coming back from dinner we ran into a group of men standing around a van inspecting the residents beneath it. It turned out to be these two little kittens. They looked like they were about three weeks old. We commented on the lack of parental supervision, and someone said "their mother went to Sheik Othman" a neighborhood that is about a 15 minute drive. So we took them home.

01 June 2009

Last week there were five children abandoned at the agency we work for. The mothers simply brought them to the waiting area and left. One was caught by our guards on her way out. She said she has no money to feed her children and thought the agency would be better able to take care of them. She was arrested and put in jail.

The agency has to find foster families as there are no orphanages. It cannot offer cash assistance to the families who accept these children. Needless to say, very few people are willing to take on extra kids when they can barely feed their own.


Me and Hanna